I’ve lost track of how many times in the past few years that I have said, fully convinced, “I think we’ve turned the corner.” Unfortunately, it’s become a bit of an inside joke, like referring to the “two weeks to flatten the curve” shutdown that proved to be so overly optimistic. Yet here I am again, and while I retain more reticence than I want to about the economy and all of the factors that led to an incredible hiatus of more than three years for Eatdrink magazine, I am beyond excited about our upcoming merger with Lifestyle.

This collaborative issue marks the last issue under the helm of Lifestyle Publisher Lana Breier, and I want to acknowledge her legacy of 25 years publishing a magazine that found a solid place with readers and advertisers throughout tough times and good. In particular, the past three years have been incredibly challenging for business, and while Lana could have retired with her head held high, she persevered and missed only one issue of her bimonthly publication. I don’t believe there is any other local magazine that can make the same claim.

Lana Breier’s stewardship has been critical to the success of Lifestyle, so to try to fill her shoes in the role of Publisher feels daunting. Fortunately, Lana had the wisdom and good fortune to assemble a stellar crew to do the work of putting the magazine together. Inheriting such a group was the only way that this transition could work for me personally. This also helps me to bring back Eatdrink, albeit in a new way, and continue a tradition that I’m proud to be associated with.

While assembling the Eatdrink covers gathered on the page opposite, I can look back fondly to each and every one with specific memories attached. Some are associated with special people, some with certain stories and writers, and many harken back to businesses that I was pleased to help celebrate.

Each issue brought a sense of satisfaction that I look forward to feeling with Lifestyle. Every issue needs to justify itself on its own merits at that specific time, but also contribute to an ongoing long term relationship with readers and with advertisers. I will not take either of those groups for granted while we make this transition, and I look forward to feeling a similar pride with every publication of Lifestyle that I am involved with.

I launched Eatdrink in 2007 with the naive thought that “I” can do this by finding the freelancers “I” would need to bring this idea of a local food and drink magazine to life. “I” quickly learned that a truly team effort was the only way to pull this off.

I’m so grateful to the many people who were part of the Eatdrink group over the years, some for a season, some for a year or two, and some for more than a decade. I couldn’t have done much without you.

I had worked in the publishing industry long enough to know I needed people to look after the finances, editing, graphic design and ad sales, but in the very beginning I wore most of those hats. There’s nothing like doing too much by yourself to fully appreciate how good it is to shed responsibilities onto trustworthy and highly competent people. I found true colleagues, and the whole quickly became more than the sum of its parts.

Eatdrink needed writers with real expertise to establish credibility with the sophisticated readers we strove to attract. We’ve had so many stellar contributors, and attentive readers will recognize some familiar names in the Contents at left. They, and others, will join the distinguished roster of Lifestyle writers.

In Eatdrink’s early years, I established an editorial advisory committee that played an important role in helping to decide what stories we should tell. The good news, which remains true to this day, is there is no shortage of great stories to share. The bad news also remains a reality: there is never enough room to tell all of those stories. This is just as much a problem for Lifestyle as it has been with Eatdrink.

Although I relish working with this full-size format, unlike the sometimes restrictive digest- sized page Eatdrink was printed on, we have such a broad range of departments to attend to. I know the Lifestyle team is up to the challenge, and they have been very welcoming in our early discussions, even though I am adding to their full plate by introducing more culinary content to the magazine.

Other changes are sure to come in time, as they did while Lifestyle evolved over the years under Lana Breier’s leadership. My goal is to see that those changes maintain forward progress, and that we keep our readers informed and engaged while they enjoy the magazine cover to cover. As long as we do that, I’m confident our regular advertisers will continue to find Lifestyle an ideal way to connect with their customers and a sound investment. We also can attract new customers and readers with each issue, and have a heck of a good time doing so. I hope you all stay with us for the ride.

May the holidays be a special time for all of you, and the year come to a close in a hopeful way that leads us all to look forward to 2024 with joy and confidence.

Peace,
Chris McDonell
chris@eatdrink.ca

The festive season can be enhanced in so many ways with just the right wine. Perhaps you’re looking for a gift idea. Wine can work but ensure that an alcoholic beverage will be a welcome gift. No need to offend recipients, especially at this time of year.

You might go to great lengths to discover the recipient’s favourite style of wine, or pick out one of the more popular offerings at the LCBO. That’s a good way to make a safe choice but your gift may end up placed right next to the same or a very similar bottle on their wine rack. That’s o.k. for your boss, but isn’t it more fun to give something unique and unexpected? Even if it turns out that your interesting choice fails to excite the recipient’s tastebuds, they have something different to offer their guests or a good story if you cite your reason for picking that wine.

Note: if you’re asked to bring a bottle of wine to a holiday gathering, you should inquire about dinner courses and select accordingly. Expect that it will be opened so, if a white wine is appropriate, bring it chilled. But if the gift of wine is your own idea, do not presume that it will be opened during your visit.

The Ontario wine industry has matured so supporting local is a great option. The LCBO stocks a wide selection of VQA wines, an assurance from the Vintners Quality Alliance that this Ontario (or BC) wine meets their high standard for quality and authenticity. You can also order wines directly from the wineries themselves. Improvements in wine delivery services is one positive fallout from the pandemic. Now it’s easy to order directly, and you’ll discover that every winery offers more choice than you’ll find at your local LCBO outlet.

We asked a few local wineries for suggestions for the holiday season. We gave them no other parameters, so it was interesting to see the surprisingly different directions they took. Or should that have been a surprise? We’re thankful to get innovative ideas, and they’ve delivered that. Cheers!

2022 Unoaked Chardonnay (VQA)

750 ml, $24.95
Alton Farms Estate Winery
5547 Aberarder Line, Plympton-Wyoming, ON
altonfarmsestatewinery.com

Carefully picked and fermented, then cellared, this wine is only lightly filtered, so it could have slight natural deposits. This full bodied, pale straw- coloured white wine is smooth and well balanced. There are honeydew melon, honey, pear, white flower and golden delicious apple notes on the nose, a perceived honey sweetness on the tongue with lemon and lemon zest on the back, and a refreshing acidity.

It will be a great accompaniment to a Sunday brunch, smoked aged cheddar, seafood such as whitefish or scallops, rainbow trout, kale and polenta gratin, a turkey and Swiss sandwich or just on its own.

Bloom Rosé

6 x 250 ml, $30.00
Burning Kiln Winery
1709 Front Road, St. Williams ON
burningkilnwinery.ca

Beautiful inside and out, Bloom is an easy-drinking sociable wine for those on the move. Delight in the confectioned, candied nose with fresh red berries on the palate. Refreshingly unpretentious, this medium bodied dry rosé is best served chilled and makes a perfect stocking stuffer!

2019 Cabernet Franc

750 ml, $21.15
Oxley Estate Winery
533 County Road 50 E., Harrow ON
oxleyestatewinery.com

The dark fruit notes, spice box backbone and lip-smacking aftertaste of this Cabernet Franc reminded Oxley master taster Yvonne of the rum cake her mom served for Christmas dessert every year. The two pair beautifully. Share this wine with family and friends while making your own holiday memories.

2019 Petite Pearl Reserve

750 ml, $35.00
Schatz Winery
72981 Bluewater Highway, Zurich ON
hessenland.com/wine-boutique/

When using their first oak barrels in 2019, four barrels were exclusively earmarked with Schatz’s estate-grown petite pearl grapes. Aged 1000+ days to develop intricate characteristics, this Reserve is an embodiment of “great things come to those who wait.” Pouring midnight nightshade dark purple, intense aromas of blackberry and wild blueberry waft from the glass. One can even pick out some burning dark chocolate. On the palate expect fresh wild black and blue fruit flavours with a spicy smoked black pepper note and campfire on the finish. Expect medium weight with light tannins and a fresh acidic note on the finish. Pair this courageous red wine with some beef tenderloin, roasted potatoes and some festive cheer.

Hawk's Flight Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Appassimento

750 ml, $45.00
Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery
7258 Essex County Rd 50 RR #5, Amherstburg ON
sprucewoodshores.com

Big and bold, this wine starts with raisined red cherry but quickly moves into darker fruits: black berry, black cherry and plum. Chocolate, followed with faint notes of vanilla and nutmeg grace the palate. This wine is produced by hand selecting the finest fruit, then slow drying the grapes over a two-to-three-month period to further ripen and concentrate the grapes. The result is a wine of mind-blowing depth, body and complexity.

A sleigh full of novel and warming seasonal beers guarantee to please guests and get party conversations started in this season of malty magic. And sorting out what to buy for a party or gifts can be daunting, especially if you’re not a frequent beer buyer or haven’t done deep dives at local craft breweries to get wonderful beers that might not be sold at the LCBO, Beer Store or grocery stores.

Holiday beers mean rich and dark with seasonal flavours, such as the gingerbread, hazelnut, cherry and chocolate used last year in two stouts and two porters from Refined Fool Brewing of Sarnia. The innovative brewery will be back with more twists this season.

“There is such a wide range (of Christmas beers) that it’s hard to be specific,” said Brandon Huybers, director at the innovative Refined Fool Brewing in Sarnia. “In our opinion, a great Christmas beer is one that gets finished.

We’ve experimented with different holiday styles and ingredients over the years, some were good, and some were terrible. What we focus on now is making sure the base is on point (in our case heavy, dark ales), and being thoughtful with additions.”

This year, Refined Fool will build upon its popular four-pack of two stouts and two porters, each named for Canadian winter pastimes: Jean Skier, a gingerbread porter; Incredible Athletes, a cherry-vanilla stout; Cross Country Sniper, a hazelnut espresso porter; and a chocolate and sea salt stout, christened Knife Shoes.

“Last year we brewed four flavoured dark beers, and it went over really well,” Huybers said. “We will be following this same formula but will be introducing some new flavours.”

Beer lore says strong, malty beers brewed for Christmas celebrations likely started with the Vikings. Dabbling in seasonal flavours — imagine nutmeg in your Belgian dubbel — is an innovation of modern craft brewers as they look to set themselves apart in the marketplace.

Forked River summoned the favourite Christmas treat flavours of orange and chocolate for a delicious stout last year. Co-founder Dave Reed says raspberry will be a featured flavour this year.

“I think classically, brewers lean to the bigger beers, be it Belgian styles or a big bourbon-aged imperial stout to enjoy over the holidays, or at least that’s where I lean,” said Dave Reed, co-owner of Forked River Brewing, the oldest operating craft brewer in London. “Lately there have been some cool, fun flavoured stouts too. It’s such a great platform, roasty, chocolaty, velvety, creamy vanilla flavours to have fun with.

Blackfriars Bridge Stout by London’s Toboggan Brewing is slightly sweet with the expected roasted barley aroma with chocolate and coffee background notes. Toboggan is also known for a similar brew with an added infusion of Madagascar vanilla beans.

Chocolate Raspberry, a sweet stout that mimics the flavours of a Viva Puff cookie with sweet raspberry and chocolate. “It’s a great way to make connections with beers and flavours you may not immediately associate with beer, like a Viva Puff, Terry’s Chocolate Orange, or an After Eight, and those are flavours we have been playing around with lately in a sweet stout format,” Reed said. “We had done the Chocolate Orange in the past, so this time around it’s time for the Raspberry to take the stage.”

Christmas beer and winter warmer releases start in November. Brewers across the region have worked with other flavours in seasons past, including gingerbread, butter tart, black forest cake and smoky wood. Hoppy bitterness disappears in favour of malt-forward ales that can get a sweet boost from brewers with the addition of honey, molasses or brown sugar.

A defunct brewery in Kingston found a winner with Tannebomb Imperial Wit, with spruce for bitterness and cranberries for sweetness in a wheat beer base. Perhaps a true seasonal classic, and one that’s easily prepared at home, is wassail beer. The tastier cousin of cider, it’s made with brown ale such as the nutty Anderson Craft Ales Brown, red wine, cider, spices and apple slices served warm.

There are various and varied recipes. Wassail is an old English word for “be well” and that’s what one of the area’s popular tiny breweries, Caps Off Brewing, wishes for its patrons anticipating the return of Wassail Ale. Last year, Caps Off brewed its own take on wassail, with a brown ale infused with mulling spices — imagine cinnamon and nutmeg — and christened it Pass the Hat. It was an apt name as money made from its sale was given to charity. Pass the Hat might be back for 2023.

Another style right for the season is cuvee, a premium- priced, high-quality beer that’s rested in barrels, sometimes several different barrels, for intense taste.

Among local brewers working with barrel ageing is Forked River, which uses bourbon and white wine barrels to produce distinctive sours.

If you think unusual flavours or high-alcohol coffee-and-dark-chocolate beers won’t please dinner guests or gift recipients, there are seasonal alternatives with sampler gift packs featuring multiple styles and, often, a merchandise bonus.

For example, Railway City Brewing has a pack featuring its much-loved Black Coal Stout, as it returns for winter along with the straightforward Crew Premium Lager, the East Coast IPA Juice Caboose, and Elgin’s Finest Wee Heavy, a Scottish ale ideal for cold weather. A stylish Railway City toque is included.

At yuletide, there’s room for low- alcohol or no-alcohol brews. Beers such as Lunchbox Lagered Ale by Harmon’s Craft Brewing, the brewed-in-London Triple Bogey Brewing’s Non-Alcoholic Lager and Bellwoods Brewery’s Non-Alcoholic Jelly King Dry Hopped Sour are among the popular choices for those who don’t want any buzz. The best selection is available through Designated Drinks (designateddrinks.ca) in London while select brands are at many grocery stores, including those that don’t sell “real” beer.

Light or no-alcohol beers are a good option to start off a three-beer dinner party. Starting with a crisp four per cent Smooth Sailing Light Lager from Cowbell Brewing of Blyth, is a good choice. Follow Rusty Sled Brewing or Local 117 from London Brewing. These taste wonderful when paired with a traditional turkey dinner. A rich dessert is best matched with a stout, such as the seasonal Crappy Tire Stout from Rusty Wrench Brewing of Strathroy, or Dark Side Chocolate Stout from Upper Thames Brewing in Woodstock.

Upper Thames Brewing’s Dark Side Chocolate Stout is thick and malty and derives its rich dark chocolate flavour from being aged on roasted Ivory Coast cacao nibs sourced from their Woodstock neighbour Habitual Chocolate.

High-alcohol imperial stouts are best in a snifter glass, warmed by your hand or, in a pinch, a red wine glass. For light beers and ambers, a pint glass works well but looks a little too everyday for special occasions. A stemmed lager glass adds a touch of class.

What’s on your Christmas beer menu? A light lager, an amber and a strong stout are excellent starting points. A Scotch ale — aka “a wee heavy” — a barrel-aged sour and a festive cranberry-infused beer round out the list for a selection that will leave guests impressed.

Food Media

Before the pandemic, I was the principal writer and food editor for Eatdrink magazine for 12 years, helping to shape the magazine under my byline and behind the scenes. I am happy to see the return of Eatdrink in this new and updated format because there is so much good news to share and great food and drink stories to tell in upcoming issues.

Good food media are necessary members of the culinary community. Like any considerate patron, we want to bring appreciation and sensibility to the table, but the food media’s mission goes beyond that. We must pass our unbiased impressions on to readers, while alerting the dining public to the diversity of choice on the culinary scene without hyperbole, airbrushing or white lies. Good reporting furnishes the reader with enough information and insight to make informed decisions, while helping arbitrate eating-out standards. If you don’t have good vital food media, you don’t have the same degree of interest, enthusiasm and accountability.

The Changing Scene

The pandemic seems to have impacted acceptable behaviours in many facets of our lives, including dining out. Restaurant etiquette is straightforward: servers and other restaurant personnel deserve respect and should be treated with dignity, as should customers. Behave as any guest would, and don’t think it is your right to move the furniture around, take the flowers off the table home or tell owners how to run their business. Patrons should comport themselves with how they wish to be treated by restaurant staff.

During the pandemic, five times restaurateurs were mandated to close their dining rooms and shut down their catering operations to prevent the spread of the coronavirus. For employers, this meant laying off workers several times and many staff left the industry permanently. There remains a shortage of qualified people ready to join the restaurant labour force.

Many establishments are still struggling, as business volume has not returned to pre- pandemic levels. Friends and colleagues who work at independent restaurants continue to operate carefully since reopening their doors to the public. For some, this meant reopening their dining rooms and patios with less seating. Many restaurants have opted to continue to offer contactless curbside delivery takeout or have pivoted to augment business by retailing specialty and grocery items.

Restaurant closings are not unheard of, and there are always several factors involved. We can’t ignore the heavy impact of the current homeless crisis on restaurants, with such a large number of unhoused people in London’s core. I am cautiously optimistic that the City of London is on the verge of initiating transformative change for the most marginalized homeless community members.

London

Despite grave challenges, our culinary community continues to demonstrate their resilience. Since the last issue of Eatdrink, a number of new high- concept restaurants and cafes have emerged or been reimagined, including ANNDining, Sagi of Wortley, One on York, Pizzeria Madre, Yasmine’s, Lucy’s Pizza & Cocktails, The Mule (in the former Black Trumpet premises) and London Bicycle Café. There are more exciting changes in the works.

Sadly, among the many changes to the local scene, some businesses have been shuttered. Perhaps most notably, we lost the beloved Budapest, and more closings are anticipated. Congee Chan Restaurant is a favourite known for its Cantonese dishes and congee. Shrimp dishes are a notch above most. This is traditional Chinese cooking combined with Canadian Chinese cuisine with Americanized versions of modern Asian specialties like deep-fried, sweet and piquant General Tao chicken. They offer more than just congee and noodles.

Order the lobster with ginger and green onion chow mien and the clams with black bean sauce. congeechanrestaurant.com

Restaurateur Jess Jazey-Spoelstra continues to deliver cutting-edge and quality food experiences combined with extraordinary service, her forte and hallmark as owner of North Moore Catering, River Room and Rhino Lounge and co-owner of Craft Farmacy with chef Andrew Wolwowicz. We anticipate that Jazey-Spoelstra will make an exciting announcement soon if all goes as planned. craftfarmacy.ca

Gnosh restaurateur Joe Duby and partners have opened a second location at London’s West 5 development. We expected the longtime down- town location will cease operations this fall. gnoshdining.com

Collaborating with Kathy McLaughlin at the Downtown London BIA, we are working to develop some unique Downtown Experiential Culinary Trails. Our first offering is a self-guided Scratch Bakery and Patisserie Trail, which includes Jill’s Table, Saisha’s Patisserie, Reverie, Rhino Lounge, Pastry Culture, Happiness, Grace Restaurant, Grace Bodega, Black Walnut Bakery Cafe, London Bicycle Cafe and Covent Garden Farmers’ Market.

Next will come a Holiday Traditions Trail, which will dovetail with a “Downtown for the Holidays” campaign in November and December this year. downtownlondon.ca

Speaking of the Black Walnut Bakery Cafe, the much-lamented original location in London’s Wortley Village will be rebuilt after a devastating fire earlier this year. blackwalnutbakerycafe.com

Since I last wrote for Eatdrink, my company, Forest City Culinary Experiences, won the Culinary Tourism Award of Excellence just as the pandemic began. We are back ( forestcityculinaryexperiences.ca) after being put on hiatus for two years. More recently, I returned to the kitchen at Blackfriars Bistro and Emporio. blackfriarsbistro.com

My former Eatdrink colleague Terry-Lynn (TL) Sim opened Mamasim at Adelaide and Grosvenor Streets, beside The Pristine Olive. TL and her husband Dave offer quality comfort foods from heat-and-serve one-pan meals such as lasagna, cottage pie, mac and cheese and chicken pot pies to smoked proteins like baby back ribs, meatloaf, brisket and pulled pork. mamasim.ca

At T.G.’s Addis Ababa Restaurant, chef/owner T.G. guides the uninitiated to select from a menu of outstanding and perfectly prepared Ethiopian specialties that are elaborately spiced. Some of my favourites are flavoured with a rousing dark-red hot sauce (berbere.) Selections include fantastic pulses (such as red lentils, chickpeas and yellow split peas) and exceptional plant-based dishes seasoned with complex spice blends.

Sharing platters are presented as ensembles and eaten with pieces of injera, a crepe-thin spongy flatbread with an enticing sourdough flavour. tgsaddisababarestaurant.com

Chef Brian Sua-an recently partnered with chef Joseph Tran to reimagine and reboot Reverie so he can focus on his latest endeavour, Saisha’s Patisserie, which features French-inspired patisserie, croissants, cakes and great coffee sourced from Norway. Look for exquisite offerings such as fleur de cao, plaisir sucrè, pistachio Paris-Brest, Basque cheesecake, Framboise, and chou-chou. Tran, a skilled chef with experience and competition wins worldwide, features Pacific Rim cuisine in the recently renovated premises, where he blends foods and cooking methods with influences from Korea, Japan, Vietnam, and Eastern Asia. Tran’s creative menus showcase a combination of multicultural and hybrid influences, resulting in unique and flavorful fusion dishes. reverierestaurant.ca

One on York is situated in the building long occupied by the former Michaels On The Thames. Billed as a unique fine dining experience, they offer classic dishes with a twist, fresh ingredients and excellent customer service. The renovated establishment features an inviting ambiance with live piano on Thursday nights and a semi-private area which holds up to 40 people . One on York faces the Thames River, and patrons can request seating with a view. oneonyork.com

Yasmine’s is the real deal in Lebanese cooking. Kick off your meal with a tantalizing trifecta of hummus, beetroot, avocado and classic creamy with nutty ground sesame paste. Kibbeh Nayyaeh is a raw beef (They call it pate.) with basil, onion, mint and bulgur, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Thin slices of salty white grilled halloumi cheese sprinkled with lemon juice came with chopped lettuce and tomatoes, making a fresh and pleasing starter. The outstanding Shish Tawook plate features charbroiled skewers of succulent marinated chicken. asminesrestaurant.com

Sagi of Wortley (pronounced sa-ji) showcases their interpretation of a repertoire of global culinary offerings inspired by travels and cultures that have influenced the owners. The cooking at Sagi of Wortley is not expressed in or identified by a single set of flavours but is a melting pot of Asian cultures. One thing that unites the fusion of disparate Asian traditions is emphasizing textures and bold, vibrant flavours. sagiofwortley.com

Pizzeria Madre continues its virtuous legacy of naturally leavened, bubbly-edged, thin-crust pizza with seasonally inspired toppings in a new location on York Street. The owners continue to mesh with the culinary world’s continuing reverence for all foods that are authentically and gastronomically Italian. This is in relatively short supply in London, despite a plethora of pretenders and knockoffs. Madre offers walk-in dining and takeout; they do not take reservations. pizzeriamadre.com

Lucy’s Pizza & Cocktails is one of Richmond Row’s trendy new restaurants. The urbane yet unpretentious Italian-inspired hot spot features a stylish dining room with high-top seating, neon and a white marble-clad bar. Lucy’s talented mixologists serve innovative craft cocktails. The cooks serve pasta bowls and perfectly scorched Neapolitan-style pizzas from the open-concept kitchen. After 10 p.m., the space transitions into a lounge-style venue where a local D.J. spins until the early morning. instagram.com/everyoneloveslucys

ANNDining is slightly off the beaten track in a quiet corner of downtown London, offering free parking, a seasonal patio, spacious indoor dining, drop-dead gorgeous cuisine and sensational cocktails. As avid travellers, the owners feature cutting-edge dishes from around the globe, presenting their interpretation of the foods, flavours and textures they love and recommend sharing their dazzling plates. ANNDough provides customers with delicious, whole wheat sourdough pizza baked in a stone oven. anndining.com

IVY Ristorante is brought to you by the owners of 100 Kellogg and is one of London’s most beautifully appointed white-linen restaurants, featuring a seasonal menu and a fantastic wine cellar. Located on Oxford Street just west of Adelaide Street, there is free parking and a complimentary half glass of prosecco and amuse bouche on arrival. ivyristorante.com

Garlic’s of London exemplifies the transcendent synergy between authentic, chef-driven culinary craftsmanship and meticulously procured ingredients imbued with contemporary twists on time-honoured classics. The culinary team led by owner Edo Pelhij and Chef Neil Rampone has a thoughtful, respectful edge, and their menus take inspiration from local products. Garlic’s is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this December, a rare and remarkable feat. garlicsoflondon.com

Owner Marvin Rivas defines cool with his Latin American-inspired Che RestoBar. This stylish hotspot has a “gallery” ambience featuring exposed brick walls, an extended granite bar, massive contemporary light fixtures, contemporary artwork and a stunning ivy-covered “secret garden” patio. The style is upscale, but the mood is casual and upbeat. Rivas and his food-savvy servers are friendly and knowledgeable. cherestobar.ca The stellar La Noisette bakery’s retail location on Oxford St E has permanently closed as its wholesale business becomes the primary focus. lanoisettebakery.com

Happiness features Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s European-style coffee and scratch baking including seasonal and specialty cakes, French macarons, cupcakes and chocolates. A selection of high-end doughnuts include pistachio, crème brûlée, salted caramel, mango and passion fruit. Coffee for their espresso-based drinks comes from craft roaster Hatch. myhappiness.ca

Boxcar Doughnuts is one of London’s only hand-cut, hand-decorated, fresh and delicious artisanal doughnut makers. It’s a love affair and started as an idea alongside the CommonWealth Coffee Co. located across from the Grand Theatre. boxcardoughnuts.ca

In mid-September, Forrat’s Chocolate Lounge Masonville, after trying to remedy the damages of the pandemic, lost the battle, and the Masonville location permanently closed. Forrat’s Dundas Street chocolate shop location expects to reopen by November and bring a new, delicious, and more accessible chocolate experience. forrat.ca

Grace Bodega is downtown London’s cafe, consignment wine bar, bakery, and fresh market. Pastry chef Roger Porcellato is passionate about baking artisanal bread and crafting pastries. There is a dedicated focus on creating all things in-house. Next door, Grace Restaurant makes us rethink food and restaurant policies in fresh and meaningful ways. The cuisine is modern Canadian, drawing on classic French traditions and techniques, infused with global influences and local flavours. A certified sommelier is on the premises, and the wine list offers exciting pairing opportunities. gracelondon.ca

Restaurateurs Vanessa and Pete Willis continue to make The Church Key a perfect spot to bring out-of-town guests. The busy downtown gastropub, across from the Grand Theatre, offers farm-to-table cuisine and an impressive selection of craft beers. The chefs follow contemporary British traditions by specializing in traditional food prepared with innovation and finesse. Try the braised Ontario lamb shoulder in ginger curry sauce on coriander-scented jasmine rice with cucumber raita and cilantro. Thechurchkey.ca

David’s Bistro presents classic regional French-inspired specialties and has developed a solid and rustic culinary signature. French cuisine is all about tradition and consistency; nobody does it better night after night. The bistro is a venerated downtown culinary landmark with its extensive and ever-changing chalkboard consignment wine selection. David Chapman is officially semi-retired but still on hand for dinner service, offering his informed and gracious hospitality. David’s serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday, lunch only on Fridays and is continuing to offer their heat-and-serve dinner menu on Sundays. davidsbistro.ca

The in-house scratch bakery at The Rhino Lounge at Museum London is the purview of über-pastry chef Michele Lenhardt, who brings bakery offerings to a new level. Have you had her take on the Cronut yet? It is only available on Thursdays. rhinolounge.ca

Meander to Manuela Frongia’s Blackfriars Bistro (The irrepressible Betty Heydon retired in 2020.) and its adjoining Emporio (combination gourmet food store and bakery), a few blocks from downtown, over the Blackfriars Bridge. Noted chefs Dani Murphy, Lilianna Oliva-Hernandez and Jacqui Shantz are a solid culinary and catering brigade. Sunday brunch has launched and Blackfriars operates one of the busiest upscale catering operations in the city. blackfriarsbistro.com

Skål International London is an travel and tourism association that counts many local restaurateurs, hoteliers, a winery and local DMOs among its membership. Skål International, with over 306 clubs in over 76 countries, is the only international body uniting all travel and tourism industry branches. Established in 1975, the London chapter is an active organization, providing its members with a wide range of networking and social events, including business dinners in London, plus national and international exchange visits with other Skål Clubs and representation during the World Travel Market and other global travel and tourism trade shows. london.skal.org

Around the Region

The iconic Red River Cereal brand turns 100 years old in 2024. Only a few brands in Canada have reached the century mark, and legendary purveyors Arva Flour Mills will be celebrating this milestone in various ways. Arva will launch Red River Cereal 7 Grain this fall, joining the “Original” and “Cream of Wheat” Red River family of hot cereal offerings. In July, the historic 204-year-old mill launched a line of gluten-free pre-mixes. Products include Bean Brownie Mix, Spicy Carrot Cake Mix and All-Purpose Flour that can be substituted one-to-one in nongluten recipes. arvaflourmill.com

Are you looking for a unique dining experience in a charming setting? Look no further than the Feast ON-certified (awarded to a business with proven sourcing of Ontario-grown food and drink) Eddington’s of Exeter. Chef James Eddington is known for his contemporary casual fine cooking with a rustic charm, using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. eddingtons.ca

The fifth generation of the Crunican Orchards family business have launched the Generations Cider Co., with three different blends of hard cider named to recognize their family’s legacy: 1910 Original, Back Forty, and Fifth Branch. These are all dry ciders, made with apples from their Elginfield (just north of London) orchards, with no added sweeteners. crunicanorchards.com

Stratford

The culinary scene in Stratford continues to ramp up, but I am still mourning the loss of the groundbreaking Red Rabbit in the summer of 2022, after seven wonderful years. El Cactus Taco Shop, Lovage, Bluebird Restaurant & Bar and ELIZABETH. are some of the more recent and notable neighbourhood restaurants.

ELIZABETH. is a neighbourhood restaurant with an open kitchen, featuring elevated cuisine in the heart of downtown Stratford. (The capitalization and period are not typos.) Operated by chef/owner Brian Clarke and his partner Sarah Sylvester, the renovated 38-seat restaurant is named after Clarke’s grandmother, who was adamant that he never set foot in her kitchen. ELIZABETH.’s chef-driven menu frequently changes on the availability and seasonality of local ingredients. They are a living wage restaurant building a solid reputation. elizabethstratford.ca

Arron and Bronwyn Linley’s bistronomy-inspired Bluebird Restaurant & Bar menu features “thoughtful, curated dishes that combine seasonality and Stratford’s unique agricultural landscape.” Like a traditional French bistro, the concept promotes “neighbourhood-level charm.”

Still, the menus are flexible, bridging the gap between classic casual fare (snacks, small and large plates) and original gastronomic riffs on local ingredients. The menu is paired expertly with a compact, accessible wine and cocktail list. bluebirdrestaurant.ca

Olive Your Favourites saw a new generation take the reins of the family business. Aaron Bayer, son of the original owner Michelle, has retained OYF’s supplier of fresh extra virgin olive oils, naturally infused olive oil and balsamic vinegars and is back to offering full tasting experiences. oliveyourfavourites.com

The Old Imperial Farmers’ Market in Aylmer launched in August 2022 and has already built a strong year-round following. Running Saturdays from 8–3, you’ll find live music and familiar faces such as Harbourtown Fudge, Pepper Tree Spice Co., La Noisette Bakery and Mamasim (prepared meals) and a range of fresh vegetable stands, butcher shops, and more. A weekly Christmas Market starts November 18, with a one-time Christmas Night Market on Friday, December 15. oldimperialfarmersmarket.ca

Oxford County continues to celebrate everything cheese, especially with the popular self-guided Cheese Trail. The Cheesy Cow Co. opened in Woodstock, and sells boutique cheese, meats and other treats (cheesycow.ca). New cheeses in the county include Haloumi from Red Dragon Dairy, Red Leicester and Gloucester from Golspie Dairy, and Feta from Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese. tourismoxford.ca

Fidos are going gourmet at Barkin Boujee in Ingersoll. This new shop has everything for dogs, from frozen fish to ready-made raw diet food. barkinboujee.ca

Last, have we ever recommended arena food before? The Ingersoll Arena canteen has gone international with Hanak Foods, who have added Nigerian halal cuisine to the burgers and fries menu. Choices include samosas, jollof and chin chin, and online ordering and delivery is available if you don’t want to eat at the rink. hanakfoods.ca

Being called “a hidden gem” in downtown London is both a glowing endorsement and an indication that you might have a smaller profile than you wish. While Olha and Anatolii Prytkova’s charming Happiness Coffee and Desserts has built a steady client base and recently celebrated its fifth anniversary, they are keen to be better known to Londoners who appreciate high quality baking and beautiful presentations.

Originally from Ukraine, this family-owned business bakes all of their European-style desserts from scratch, including exquisite specialty cakes, cupcakes, donuts, and chocolates. There is always an enticing array of decadent and not-too-sweet little treats in the shop’s sparkling showcase, ready-to-go, or pick a comfy seat in the clean and bright cafe space. A generous seasonal patio under a sky-blue canopy augments the welcoming interior, with table space to accommodate singles or groups.

Of course, there is great coffee too, as well as an interesting selection of teas, cold drinks, and even champagne! Happiness is fully licensed, so enjoy your favourite beverage with a great dessert. Fresh sandwiches, a variety of croissants, Belgian waffles and other heartier fare is also available.

Order ahead for unique special orders. Custom mousse cakes, cheesecakes, cupcakes or donuts can be designed to fit your party theme or colour scheme. Prettily boxed collections in a variety of quantities and styles make ideal corporate or hostess gifts and will be well received by anyone.

In the European tradition, Happiness dials back the sugar and ramps up the style with beautifully elegant creations

Want to leave a lasting impression? Custom-printed sweets delight the taste buds while offering the perfect canvas for your message, limited only by your imagination. Whether it’s for corporate events, weddings, birthdays, or just to add a touch of magic in an unexpected way, let Happiness turn your vision into delectable edible creations! Happiness has unique options to suit any budget. Stop by or reach out and let them make your day — and your holidays and gatherings — truly special.

Whether you’re new to baking or a seasoned expert, this hefty 464-page how-to tome has plenty to offer as it guides you through simple to difficult baking experiences. Early chapters in the beautifully organized Baking Wisdom, by renowned Canadian celebrity chef Anna Olsen, outline the essentials of baking with informative tips. She then moves through pies and tarts; pastries; cakes; custards and creams; confections; cookies and bars; and ends with breads.

Olsen’s instructions include clear and easily understood steps. I tried the two recipes we’ve included here, with an eye on useful items for the upcoming holiday season. I found her baking times consistently accurate and trustworthy. Anna has ranked these two as “simple” and I would agree, especially given how clear her directions are.

The book includes many that are “more involved” or “complex” but she also includes “bites of wisdom” that refer back to earlier chapters that carefully outline specific and sometimes challenging techniques. Anna also shares how to store your finished products and it is a good idea to read all the steps before you start. Refrigeration time for cooling is part of many of the recipes, so get some shelf space ready.

The following recipes turned out well for me. They had strong visual appeal on the table, and both had rich, unique flavours. I served the Torta Tenerina for guests and for a more holiday look, I garnished the cake with some sliced strawberries and sparkly sprinkles. That worked well, but I have no doubt the blueberries and blackberries, as shown in the book, would also be perfect. I sent part of the Torta home with our appreciative guests.

When I made the Snowball Cookies a couple of days later, I rolled more than a few in icing sugar for tasting but put the rest in the freezer for the holidays. We loved them and, as Olsen points out, a little jar of these would make a lovely hostess gift.

Each recipe has an outstanding I really appreciate. Baking Wisdom is the kind of cookbook that you can enjoy reading for pleasure while learning about the art of baking. If you’re like me, you’ll be dreaming about what to bake next.

Tradition takes center stage around the holidays, perhaps more than any other time of year. Much of what we categorize as “seasonal stress” is really the result of endless shopping, “must have” once-a-year baking and time wasted online watching with vacant eyes as other — calmer — people demonstrate the simplicity of winding cranberries around an old tree branch they will soon suspend in a pristine white hallway. In stark contrast, there’s also the gritty reality of holiday guests (fresh towels, roll out mattresses, lumpy pillow replacement) yet the bustle of everyday life still lopes on at top speed. The need to replicate each holiday the same way, every year seems vital to success.

But a worldwide pandemic would radically alter the holiday season and everything in between. The spectres of Covid-19, possible job losses and brutal isolation from friends and family played in most people’s minds on repeat. Previous worries about how many rum balls to make suddenly seemed very trite indeed.

Despite this, all sorts of heart-clamping acts of kindness happened. I recall grocery shopping in the hoary frost of early winter mornings, placing items quickly and urgently in the cart while Sheryl Crow sang about soaking up the sun as if everything was business as usual. But the shelves were being calmly re-filled, and employees smiled with their eyes, nodding greetings. I welled up unexpectedly as I thanked cashiers, flooded with gratitude that I was heading home to make vats of burnished chicken stock from the carcasses (also hoary with frost!) in my freezer.

That first winter of the pandemic, when no one really knew what was safe, made traditional get-togethers feel daunting, drawing a further curtain of sadness around the holiday season; however, since I have enterprising friends, one of them suggested a socially distanced winter walk. It was one of those dazzlingly bright but bitter winter days and we were well wrapped up in scarves and hoods. Before we set off, my friend wedged her coffee cup on top of a snow drift and beckoned for us to do the same.

In a strange ritual, we approached with our own cups, backed up and watched in delight as she glugged Kahlua into each, her mittened hand working quickly. “Merry Christmas!” we toasted and set off walking in a companionable line, our footsteps crunching in the silence. There would be no Christmas tree that first year but like others on our street, we lined our windows with little white lights to chase away the 4 o’clock gloom that we had control over.

Like many others, I also marked the time to go outside and “make some noise” in order to convey appreciation for exhausted and heroic front-line hospital staff. As snow swirled around me, I felt self-conscious and truly ridiculous banging a pot with a spoon and especially as the rest of our street remained in quiet darkness. But as I continued, an incohesive, jangling rhythm in the distance was being carried towards me as others began to join in. At a time when everyone felt so powerless it was an eerie, primitive collective expressing camaraderie and hope.

As the holiday season grew near, I began to recognize that not having to cook The Big Dinner was not as upsetting as I had previously thought. We had nothing to lose but our festive chains – this in itself could be a kind of celebration, surely? But on Christmas Eve, I received a text message to look on the front porch and there, crouching upright in the snow was the largest turkey I have ever seen. My son’s partner had been given a turkey from her firm and neither their tiny oven (or fridge freezer!) could accommodate a 31-pound bird. She thought I might be able to use it?

Once my initial dismay (and guilt!) had passed, I log rolled that turkey inside, poured myself a large glass of wine and wondered if this was how Mrs. Cratchit had felt. (Careful readers will recall that poor woman had just prepped a full goose dinner the night previous …) I did rally eventually, and soon the house was steaming with savoury goodness. (We even scored some last minute veggies at the market!) The next day we loaded up containers and hand- delivered a full Christmas dinner to each of my sons’ homes. My heart constricted to see their handsome, excited faces as they cheered through the window while we unloaded everything onto the porch.

The holidays are all about forging memories but there is always a risk that in trying to preserve tradition too rigidly, the season will be rendered completely unremarkable by its very sameness.

The pandemic was a disturbing and unwelcome wake-up call in every way, but it did wipe the slate completely clean, forcing all of us to re-imagine what is truly important. Going forward, I find myself leaning into a more pagan sensibility, favouring old tree branches to online sales gluttony, and getting just the right amount of cranberries to wind around.